Fashion in the Colonial Era
by Amanda Peterson
by Amanda Peterson
As you can probably imagine, fashion in the 1600s was very different than modern times. Petticoats and gloves have been replaced by miniskirts and torn jeans. Some styles are still popular, though, such as the high heeled shoe. However, during the colonial era, it was the men who wore these most often and not the women.
Let’s start from square one. Common underwear was similar to what we know now as long underwear. It was linen, long sleeved, and loose fitting. For women, this was called a smock; for men, it was a shirt. Its length made it easy to tuck into petticoats or breaches.
Aprons were universally worn to protect clothes from dirtying. Women’s aprons, often made from linen or wool, were about the same length as their petticoats, while men – especially blacksmiths or carpenters – wore them according to their occupation.
Everyone had something tied around their neck, whether it was ruffled or flat. Lace or linen collars were the most popular garment, though some women wore a kerchief (similar to a handkerchief). On their heads, men wore felt hats or woolen caps to shade their faces from the hot sun. Women placed linen coifs over their hair once it had been swept up in a fancy hairdo. Over the caps were felt hats.
Cotton was forbidden in England and France for most of this century; however, America used it to make cheap clothing for the lower classes. Wool was great for the poor, as it was cheaper and warmer. Linen was popular in the gentry for underclothing; silk was for outer garments, also available exclusively to the higher classes.
Children’s clothing was, most often, blue, gray, red, green, yellow, or brown, and commonly made from wool or linen (depending on their class). Toddlers had leading strings, which were sewn to the shoulders of their gowns, to prevent them from falling once they started walking. Babies wore puddings, which protected their forehead, and biggins, which kept their heads warm.
Both genders wore gowns with long sleeves and skirts until, at four, boys started to come into their more masculine side by dressing in long-sleeved jackets called doublets. Finally, around six or seven, girls started dressing like their older counterparts, as did boys. A special event occurred around this time for males – being “breeched” meant taking the step from wearing a gown to wearing breeches, and from spending more time with his mother to working with his father.
Ankle-length dresses were popular for women of this time. Underneath, they wore stays or corsets, which squeezed their body into the right shape. Besides defining the waist, it also supported the breasts. In the 1700s, these garments were essential for women of all ages. A flat piece of wood, called a busk, was sometimes placed in the center front of the stay. However, this fashion piece was soon discovered to have health defects, such as improper digestion and deformed internal organs.
Over the stays, females wore a waistcoast. These were, essentially, jackets of wool or canvas, similar to the men’s doublets. The legs were covered by one or two petticoats, which were often made of wool, too. These protected their legs, especially when they were cooking, as wool took a long time to burn in the event that it caught on fire.
Wigs were very popular amongst the men of this era. Besides being fashionable, these head garments helped distinguish between classes. Professionals – such as lawyers – had gray wigs, while tradesmen wore theirs in brown. Judges, military officers, and other formal businessman, had white.
The word “macaroni” was invented at this time to describe ultra-fashionable young men. The fashion sense of such males was usually flamboyant and excessive, including tight shirts, short waistcoats, and huge buttons, along with other elaborate details. Walking sticks or swords often accompanied these boys.
In many pictures, pilgrims were depicted as sad, solemn men and women, dressed always in black. Contrary to popular belief, black was rarely worn by these people – formal clothing was almost always black. However, it was not easy to dye garments this dark color, so it was worn only on special occasions. Everyday clothes were, most often, colors such as yellow, blue, red, gray, white, and brown.
There was also a very particular way to get dressed if you were a woman. Knee socks were bound on, first, with tapes or buckles; this was followed by the shoes. Calf-length chemise came next, and then a modesty skirt. The stay, pocket, panier, petticoats, stomacher, and robe proceeded. Lastly, the caps were set into place.
Of course, just as today, fads changed as seasons came and went, and new materials drew in and out of style. However, with much more available to us today, more extravagant outfits are being made all the time. Also, without such formal standards to dress by, we can individualize ourselves in the way we dress.
Let’s start from square one. Common underwear was similar to what we know now as long underwear. It was linen, long sleeved, and loose fitting. For women, this was called a smock; for men, it was a shirt. Its length made it easy to tuck into petticoats or breaches.
Aprons were universally worn to protect clothes from dirtying. Women’s aprons, often made from linen or wool, were about the same length as their petticoats, while men – especially blacksmiths or carpenters – wore them according to their occupation.
Everyone had something tied around their neck, whether it was ruffled or flat. Lace or linen collars were the most popular garment, though some women wore a kerchief (similar to a handkerchief). On their heads, men wore felt hats or woolen caps to shade their faces from the hot sun. Women placed linen coifs over their hair once it had been swept up in a fancy hairdo. Over the caps were felt hats.
Cotton was forbidden in England and France for most of this century; however, America used it to make cheap clothing for the lower classes. Wool was great for the poor, as it was cheaper and warmer. Linen was popular in the gentry for underclothing; silk was for outer garments, also available exclusively to the higher classes.
Children’s clothing was, most often, blue, gray, red, green, yellow, or brown, and commonly made from wool or linen (depending on their class). Toddlers had leading strings, which were sewn to the shoulders of their gowns, to prevent them from falling once they started walking. Babies wore puddings, which protected their forehead, and biggins, which kept their heads warm.
Both genders wore gowns with long sleeves and skirts until, at four, boys started to come into their more masculine side by dressing in long-sleeved jackets called doublets. Finally, around six or seven, girls started dressing like their older counterparts, as did boys. A special event occurred around this time for males – being “breeched” meant taking the step from wearing a gown to wearing breeches, and from spending more time with his mother to working with his father.
Ankle-length dresses were popular for women of this time. Underneath, they wore stays or corsets, which squeezed their body into the right shape. Besides defining the waist, it also supported the breasts. In the 1700s, these garments were essential for women of all ages. A flat piece of wood, called a busk, was sometimes placed in the center front of the stay. However, this fashion piece was soon discovered to have health defects, such as improper digestion and deformed internal organs.
Over the stays, females wore a waistcoast. These were, essentially, jackets of wool or canvas, similar to the men’s doublets. The legs were covered by one or two petticoats, which were often made of wool, too. These protected their legs, especially when they were cooking, as wool took a long time to burn in the event that it caught on fire.
Wigs were very popular amongst the men of this era. Besides being fashionable, these head garments helped distinguish between classes. Professionals – such as lawyers – had gray wigs, while tradesmen wore theirs in brown. Judges, military officers, and other formal businessman, had white.
The word “macaroni” was invented at this time to describe ultra-fashionable young men. The fashion sense of such males was usually flamboyant and excessive, including tight shirts, short waistcoats, and huge buttons, along with other elaborate details. Walking sticks or swords often accompanied these boys.
In many pictures, pilgrims were depicted as sad, solemn men and women, dressed always in black. Contrary to popular belief, black was rarely worn by these people – formal clothing was almost always black. However, it was not easy to dye garments this dark color, so it was worn only on special occasions. Everyday clothes were, most often, colors such as yellow, blue, red, gray, white, and brown.
There was also a very particular way to get dressed if you were a woman. Knee socks were bound on, first, with tapes or buckles; this was followed by the shoes. Calf-length chemise came next, and then a modesty skirt. The stay, pocket, panier, petticoats, stomacher, and robe proceeded. Lastly, the caps were set into place.
Of course, just as today, fads changed as seasons came and went, and new materials drew in and out of style. However, with much more available to us today, more extravagant outfits are being made all the time. Also, without such formal standards to dress by, we can individualize ourselves in the way we dress.
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